“Yet the light of the bright world dies With the dying sun
The mind has a thousand eyes, And the heart but one;
Yet the light of a whole life dies, When love is done”
– Francis Bourdillon 1890
The Victorian era, a period marked by its distinctive cultural and artistic movements, left a lasting legacy in the world of jewellery. Among the various styles that flourished during Queen Victoria’s reign, the Starburst Motif emerged as a symbol of elegance and grandeur. This article delves into the allure of Victorian Starburst jewellery, exploring its historical context, design elements, and enduring appeal.
Historical Backdrop
The captivating Starburst design gained prominence during the Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1885-1901), a time when society began to shift away from the sombreness of the earlier Grande Period. The death of Prince Albert in 1861 had plunged Queen Victoria into deep mourning, influencing fashion and jewellery to reflect a more subdued and solemn aesthetic. The Starburst motif was heavily influenced by the Romantic movement in the Victorian period, which celebrated nature, emotion, and imagination, and duly paid homage to the Heavenly bodies and very much the desire for soulful purpose and connectedness.
By 1885 there was a collective desire for lighter and more whimsical design, heralding in the Aesthetic period. Especially lauding nature, to the Cosmological bodies and human purpose ….The enchantment of the Stars above- the Romance of the night sky and the search for our purpose and connectedness that has held us captive for eons…
One notable characteristic of the Aesthetic Period was the transition from handcrafted pieces to those produced by machines. This shift allowed for greater uniformity and affordability, making jewellery more accessible to the burgeoning middle class. However, many artisans continued to handcraft their creations, ensuring each piece retained its desirability and exclusivity.
Design and Craftsmanship
Victorian Starburst jewellery is characterized by its intricate craftsmanship and the use of precious metals and gemstones to create the radiant Starburst effect. The motif often featured a central gemstone, typically a diamond, surrounded by a halo of smaller stones or intricate metalwork that mimicked the bursting rays of a star. Starburst pendants were often worn as brooches or pins, but some had a fold-down loop that allowed them to be worn as necklaces as well.
Materials and Techniques
The materials used in Victorian starburst jewellery varied, with gold being a popular choice for its warm hue that complemented the sparkle of the gemstones. Silver was also used, often in combination with gold, to create a contrasting effect, and items were adorned with various gemstones, such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires, pearls, opals, turquoise, amethyst, and paste. Paste is a type of glass that mimics the appearance of precious stones, and it was widely used in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Legacy and Collectability
In conclusion, Victorian Starburst jewellery is a testament to the creativity and innovation of the Aesthetic Period. Its enduring popularity underscores the human desire for beauty and adornment, transcending the boundaries of time to remain a cherished part of our cultural heritage.
Highly collectible, prized for its beauty and the craftsmanship it represents and their enduring appeal. Antique enthusiasts and jewellery collectors seek out these pieces for their historical significance and the timeless elegance they bring to modern fashion, whether as a statement piece or a family heirloom.
