Welcome to 2024! We are thrilled to announce our soon to be released, new look Website is almost done! So much to catalogue, photograph and write about- it has been such a joy reinventing the way we present our antique collections! And a reminder of how far we have come… we look forward to sharing stories and offering rare beauties as they come into our collection!
This is a short article encompassing all the key factors in considering your diamond antique purchase- Remember to try and avoid purchasing items without taking an indulgent time to thoroughly evaluate your item- and if unsure, ask many of the professionals offering expertise out there!
Diamonds are among the most precious and sought-after gems in the world, but not all diamonds are created equal. To evaluate and compare the quality and value of diamonds, there is a universal standard that consists of four main characteristics: Colour, Clarity, Cut, and Carat weight. These are known as the 4 C’s of Diamonds, and they are essential for any diamond buyer to understand.
Cut
The cut of a diamond refers to the proportions, symmetry, and polish of the stone, which determine how well it reflects and refracts light. The cut of a diamond is the most important factor in its beauty and sparkle, as it affects the fire, brilliance, and utter scintillation of the stone!
The cut of a diamond is graded on a scale from Excellent to Poor, with Excellent being the best and Poor being the worst. Diamonds that are graded Excellent or Very Good have optimal proportions and angles that maximize the light return and dispersion of the stone. Diamonds that are graded Good or Fair have acceptable proportions and angles that allow some light to escape and reduce the sparkle of the stone. Diamonds that are graded Poor have poor proportions and angles that cause most of the light to leak out and make the stone dull and lifeless.
The cut of a diamond also refers to the shape and style of the stone, which can vary depending on the preference and taste of the buyer. There are many different types of diamond cuts, but some of the most popular ones are:
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Cushion cut: This is a vintage-inspired diamond cut, which features a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and 58 facets that create a soft and romantic look.
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Emerald cut: This is a sophisticated and elegant diamond cut, which features a rectangular shape with step-cut facets and cropped corners that create a hall-of-mirrors effect and highlight the clarity of the stone.
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Asscher cut: This is a variation of the emerald cut, which features a square shape with step-cut facets and cropped corners that create a concentric and geometric look and highlight the clarity of the stone.
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Oval cut: This is a modified version of the round brilliant cut, which features an elongated shape and 58 facets that create a flattering and graceful look.
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Marquise cut: This is a modified version of the round brilliant cut, which features a pointed oval shape and 58 facets that create a dramatic and glamorous look.
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Pear cut: This is a modified version of the round brilliant cut, which features a teardrop shape and 58 facets that create a feminine and delicate look.
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Radiant cut: This is a hybrid of the round brilliant and emerald cuts, which features a square or rectangular shape with brilliant-cut facets and cropped corners that create a lively and dazzling look.
Heart cut: This is a modified version of the round brilliant cut, which features a heart shape and 56 or 58 facets that create a romantic and sentimental look.
Image credit: Getty images
Colour
The colour of a diamond refers to the presence or absence of yellow or brown tints in the stone. The more colourless a diamond is, the more rare and valuable it is. The colour of a diamond is graded on a scale from D to Z, with D being the most colourless and Z being the most yellow or brown. Diamonds that are graded D, E, or F are considered colourless, while those that are graded G, H, I, or J are near colourless. Diamonds that are graded K or lower have noticeable colour and are less desirable commercially. As colour is such a personal choice, many of our patrons prefer the moodiness of lower coloured stones…..and often these diamonds flatter the mutually set gemstones in a piece best!
However, there are some exceptions to this rule. Diamonds that have intense and vivid colours other than yellow or brown, such as pink, blue, green, or red, are known as fancy colour diamonds. These diamonds are very rare and valuable, and they are graded on a different scale based on their hue, saturation, and tone.
Clarity
The clarity of a diamond refers to the presence or absence of internal flaws or external blemishes in the stone. These imperfections are also known as inclusions or blemishes, and they can affect the appearance and brilliance of a diamond. The clarity of a diamond is graded on a scale from FL to I3, with FL being flawless and I3 being heavily included. Diamonds that are graded FL, IF, VVS1, or VVS2 are very clear and have no visible inclusions or blemishes under 10x magnification. Diamonds that are graded VS1, VS2, SI1, or SI2 have minor inclusions or blemishes that are not visible to the naked eye, but can be seen under 10x magnification. Diamonds that are graded I1, I2, or I3 have obvious inclusions or blemishes that are visible to the naked eye and can affect the beauty and durability of the diamond.
Carat Weight
The carat weight of a diamond refers to the mass or size of the stone, measured in carats. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. The carat weight of a diamond is usually expressed in decimal points or fractions, such as 0.50 carat, 1.25 carat, or 2 1/2 carat. The carat weight of a diamond is the most objective and easy to measure of the 4 C’s, but it is not the only factor that determines the size and appearance of a diamond. The cut, shape, and setting of a diamond can also affect how large or small a diamond looks on the finger or in the jewellery.
The carat weight of a diamond is also the most influential factor in its price, as larger diamonds are more rare and valuable than smaller diamonds. However, the price of a diamond is not directly proportional to its carat weight, as the quality and rarity of the diamond also play a role. For example, a 2 carat diamond of high colour, clarity, and cut can be more expensive than a 3 carat diamond of low colour, clarity, and cut. Therefore, the carat weight of a diamond should be balanced with the other 3 C’s to achieve the best value and quality for your budget.
Diamond Cuts in Antique Jewellery
Diamond cuts have evolved over time, reflecting the changes in technology, fashion, and taste of different eras. Antique jewellery, which is generally defined as jewellery that is over 100 years old, features some of the oldest and most distinctive diamond cuts, which are often referred to as old cuts. Some of the most common old cuts are:
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Old mine cut: This is one of the earliest diamond cuts, which dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries. It features a cushion shape with a high crown, a small table, a large culet, and 58 facets. It has a warm and charming look, with a lot of depth and character.
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Old European cut: This is a precursor of the modern round brilliant cut, which dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It features a round shape with a high crown, a small table, a large culet, and 58 facets. It has a soft and glowing look, with a lot of fire and brilliance.
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Rose cut: This is a vintage-inspired diamond cut, which dates back to the 16th century. It features a flat base and a domed top with triangular facets that resemble the petals of a rose. It has a subtle and romantic look, with a low profile and a gentle sparkle.
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Old single (table) cut: This is a simple and elegant diamond cut, which dates back to the 17th century. It features a round shape with a table, eight crown facets, eight pavilion facets, and no culet. It has a clean and crisp look, with a moderate sparkle and clarity.
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Old Swiss cut: This is a variation of the old European cut, which dates back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It features a round shape with a high crown, a small table, a small culet, and 34 facets. It has a bright and lively look, with a lot of fire and brilliance.
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Antique jewellery collectors and enthusiasts appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of old cut diamonds, as they reflect the craftsmanship and personality of their makers and owners. Old cut diamonds are also more sustainable and ethical, as they require less mining and production than modern cut diamonds. However, old cut diamonds are also more rare and scarce, as they are no longer produced and many of them have been recut or lost over time. Therefore, old cut diamonds can be more valuable and desirable than modern cut diamonds, depending on their quality, condition, and provenance.
As we can see, the 4 C’s of diamonds are the key elements that determine the quality and value of any diamond, whether it is modern or antique. By understanding the 4 C’s of diamonds, you can make an informed and confident decision when purchasing a diamond for yourself or your loved one.
Stop and appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of each diamond, as no two diamonds are exactly alike.
Whether you prefer a colourless, flawless investment diamond, or a colourful and included diamond full of character, or perhaps a modern and brilliant diamond, or , an antique and charming diamond, they never disappoint! Cherish them, wear them, nothing else speaks of heritage past and future as this precious stone.
With Love and Blessings
